Hey Madcow, if I want to check the resistance on my stator wires, can I just take readings off the wiring harness where it goes into the CDI? It's gonna be tough to get at the wires down low where they come out of the stator.
Well, stator testing is going to commence shortly. I already got an odd reading out of my ignition coil, so I don't know if I trust my test procedure, but we'll see what happens.
Madcow, how much does a flywheel puller that would work for my sled cost, and where does a fella get one? Do you know if Riley has one? Maybe he would bring it up to the cabin this weekend and let me borrow it if he did?
Buying the right tool is cheaper than breaking the flywheel, so are you sure this steering wheel puller is appropriate? Also, I can rent tools from O'Reilly, but I don't know if I believe in "renting."
Twins and triples are different. The twins have an extra housing, the triples do not. The stator is set farther back. Not sure why he didn't just use longer bolts?
Rubi, the one from O'reilly's (formerly Murrays) or Autozone in the red case is the one I have and I have used it on dozens of waverunners, jetskis, and snowmobiles. From 1981 until 2002 engines without a hiccup.
__________________ You don't have to flinch for me to know that you're scared.
Yes but the puller itself wouldn't get close enough to the flywheel to use the threads. I even went and bought more metric bolts different sizes and it kept breaking and bending them. I ended up throwing that pos out and bought a nice puller set like the second link, it also proved worthless. At that point I had to borrow an actual polaris flywheel puller, popped off like it was loose.
Edit: IBS beat me to the last post, I've never attempted a twin engine flywheel so I'm unsure of the exact differences between the two.
"Do not go where the path may LEAD, go instead where there is no path and leave a TRAIL"
Originally Posted by Rubi
Nobody on this site likes Ski Doo except Dirty Harry, and he's better at making babies than buying or fixing sleds, so you don't want to listen to him.
i have a puller that i fabricated for a KAW STANDUP JETSKI that might work....you want i should measure it up and give ya dimensions? OLAF or someone can bring it up if you want to use it....let me know....it might fit
one thing thats really disconcerning is the fact that it sounds like a butter knife stuck in a disposal.....or a blender with nails in it.....or......i digress
PS.....you did check the clutch for worn rollers and helix and or pins....it will cause the same effect and sound just like a couple o bearings in a coffee grinder....o wait.....thats usually the factory sound on a YAMAMAHAMA.....DOH....clinkity, clanckity, chang, chang
Book says plug lead to plug lead should be 5 K ohms + 10 K ohms for the caps. You want me to measure just a wire?
I'm reading that coil off of the wire harness that goes into it with a black and white wire. Is that correct? I haven't gotten any impedance to show up there. The yellow to brown that usually reads 00.0 I have seen values show up on that test.
It's just simple backfiring and rough running....and now you have learnt WHY to buy an ARCTIC CAT.....their stators are seperated....one side runs the engine and one side runs the electric....so if this happens the sled will get you home just fine....think why TODD PALIN wins in arctic race....then when you get home you know 100% its the regulator or stator to test.....i now remember why i only buy ARCTIC CAT's EFI's.....but you gettin closer.....closer to it being the stator......DOH